Let’s Get Knotty
Let’s Get Knotty! All about rope tying.
Read up on Shibari and checkout these beautiful images
When you’re playing in my dungeon chances are that I’ll have you tied up in some sort of configuration, I just love rope! There are lots of misconceptions about rope tying, and let me tell you that done properly it can be entirely safe and a lot of fun. You don’t need to be an expert to get started and just about anyone can do it, it doesn’t require any particular body shape or flexibility.
A definite impediment to rope bondage is the vocabulary, it can definitely sound a bit overwhelming. But with this quick list you’ll be able to join in any conversation about bight, natural and synthetic fibres and hold your own in a debate on the use of the Lark’s Head vs the Clove Hitch.
Here’s a list of the most useful terms, selected by an actual rope expert….me! and they should cover all you need to get started.
Bite/Bight: when the rope is folder in half to create a small loop.
Working Ends: the opposite end of a bite, the two ends of the rope.
Natural Fibre Rope: hemp, cotton, coconut, jute, and sisal ropes.
These ropes are a little more expensive and don’t take dye very well so they’re more likely to be in those natural rope colours. Natural fibre rope tends to have a better tooth and won’t take as many knots to get it to hold securely. It also isn’t very stretchy, making it a good option for suspension play.
Synthetic Fibre Rope: nylon, parachute cord, poly-pro, MFP ropes.
Ropes made with synthetic fibres are easily found and tend to be less expensive than those made with natural fibres. They’re generally available in more colours and are perfectly suitable for most types of bondage.
Rope Thickness: usually measured in millimetres. Thinner ropes between are best for delicate work with intricate knots like the Japanese Shibari, while medium thicknesses afford the most versatility and thick strands, though bulky, can provide added comfort.
Rope Lengths: The longer the rope the longer it will take you to tie your captive up, but they can be create beautiful ties in rope corset designs, karadas, and are useful for larger body types. Generally ropes are measured in metres or arm lengths, classified into two arm lengths (between 3 and 3.6m), three arm lengths (4.5 and 5.2m) and five arm lengths (7.6-9m), and longer lengths can be obtained by knotting two ends of rope together.
- Single Rope Technique: bondage using only a single rope, often a single rope is folded in half to look like a double rope.
- Double Rope Technique: two ropes are used at the same time, allows for lots of decorative rope pattern possibilities.
- Rope Wrapping – the simplest rope bondage variation, simply involves wrapping the rope around the restrained partners body.
- Rope Weaving – the rope is wrapped around the body in a zig-zag pattern then a second rope is woven around it.
Square Knot: a simple binding knot that is used to secure your rope to an object. To make a square knot tie a left-handed overhand knot and then a right-handed overhand knot, or vice-versa.
Larks Head-use this knot to attach a rope to an object. Simply fold your rope in half, place the resulting bight over the object you want to secure, then pull the hanging rope through the bight and pull tight.
Half Hitch – a simple overhand knot that leaves the working end over and under the standing part. Use two together to make a clove hitch, but one alone is usually fairly insecure.